Subject: its your job to protect your kids

From: Food Alert Implemented <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2014 12:04:29 -0700

Milk Worse than Smoking?

Dear Atompub-archive,
 
Did you know that according to a study from an esteemed medical school, some types of milk are now connected to cancer and could cause as much damage to your health as smoking four packs of cigarettes a day?
 
Think about that
 
Smoking four packs a day is almost certain to lead to an early death,
but according to the latest research, a certain type of milk could be even worse.
 
Yet Id bet not one in 1,000 people knows what type of milk it is.
 
Theres a good chance this milk may be in your fridge right now.
 
It was in mine, too. Until I came across the research you're about to see.

Find out Here  http://www.visowe.com/swan/ossified/sidelines/arch.htm

Sincerely,

Doug Hill
Director, Laissez Faire Club

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Stop further health updates http://www.visowe.com/abhorrers/banjoist/disenchants/basset/febrile/misapplying.html
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I have a porcelain suger bowl which broke and that I want to fix. It's cracked pretty much down the middle into two halves. When pressed together they fit very well and the crack is barely visible, so I figure it should be easy to glue it together. However, I don't know which glue to use.

I have three kinds of glue at home: 
A quick/"super" glue (Loctite super glue precision), a 2-component epoxy (Loctite power epoxy) and a paste glue (a local brand, transparent and supposedly strong).

I don't really know much about the differences of different kinds of glue, so which one would you recommend? In my experience, plain old white school glue is great for porcelain and ceramic type stuff. I've tried super glue, and it just sort of beads up on the surface - like it absorbs the top layer of the ceramic and peels it off like chalk. The white school glue seems to absorb in better (maybe because it is more liquid) and seems to bond with the ceramic better. Not sure if I would trust your sugar bowl in water (washing) after fixing it, but it should be fine for dry applications. Then maybe if you need to wash it, hand wash very carefully? Or maybe once the glue has dried, coat the whole piece in a clear sealer of some type?Third, decide what you want to make it of - clay? beads? stone? wire? glass? a combination?
Then you get to decide what you want to make. And make it. 

It all depends on what materials you want to use as to how to make the pendant. If you want to use beads/stones, then you could use wire to form the shape you want or to make a "cage" around a larger stone to hold it. You could use metallic thread to maI've had to devise a method to hang these on the wall using the heavy steel wire I use for the cast-stone. I loosely embedded the wire into the clay in the back so it can move but is mechanically "locked in", hopefully my idea worked.
I normally fire at cone 1 with a slight offset to get the red color I want: 2060 degrees, and my current 26-1/2 hour cycle for these pieces has worked well.er perfect lion was also on the same shelf and directly next to the 4 defective plaques, so this rules out a kiln/atmosphere issue as far as I'm concerned and points more towards a problem with the particular box of clay these came from.
I don't remember now, but it's likely these came from two different boxes of clay and since I just rec'd 1000# of it and started using it, and I had no problems of this nature previously- then the opened box I had on hand likely was finished off to make the two lions that came out perfectly, and I opened a new box to make the rest.

The lions take 10-1/2" of clay each, so a 50# box only makes 4 of them.