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Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2014 10:14:35 -0700

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far from featured element: it operates almost solely at the margins, a background and not a backbone. It's like a raw-meat dish for people who don't like raw-meat; a carpaccio for diners who'd like to taste all the flavors but the carpaccio. Octopus:

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Parts of this cephalopod were very well grilled, but others were too small and (thus) too burned (Coetzee would say this is where "burned" becomes "burnt"). The haricot vert tossed into things was too al dente for the m??lange; the bitter, roasted lettuce--and I usually really enjoy grilled or roasted leafy greens--detracted rather than added, accentuating the pieces if octopus that were burnt. All together another dish--like the goat carpaccio--that by being too much ends up not enough. Escargot ravioli: This was at least very tasty, with succulent escargot, wrapped in a well-rendered ravioli dough, served on a nice subtle-yet-hearty, rich-but-not-thick sauce. The onion-crunch topping was also a nice textural touch that enhanced the bite of the ravioli, and it functioned well in the flavor-matrix of the sauce, pasta, and filling. Yet, even this dish was marred: four snail-stuffed ravioli for fifteen dollars, when--as good as they were--I could eat a full plate of the best escar
got in Chicago at Watershed for $11. Or, if I just happen to be on that stretch of Randolph, I could head to Maude's for likewise-excellent escargot, much better drinks, and a lyonnaise salad that blows any item I had from Girl & the Goat decidedly away. Roasted cauliflower. Top top notch. It is so full of flavor. It literally fills your mouth with full on taste overflow It smells like a craving you didn't know you had until just now. Then you taste it. It is full. It's salty but not too much. The pine nuts add a smooth nutty balance. And then you taste the hint of fresh mint. That was just the roasted cauliflower. I think because the cauliflower was a very taste bud overload, the next plate paled in comparison. The confit goat belt with lobar and crab came next. It was indeed great but when tourists is already so excited from the tasted cauliflower , anything